Closed Captions (CC):
[Music]
last time on sailing bella chandra
i made a video about psychology dealing
with your brain
and cruising hey guys
if you're new to this channel i'm dan
and my partner is noelle and we're
sailing bella chandra
we sailed all the way from nova scotia
canada to the caribbean and we are
sailing all around the caribbean now
if you haven't subscribed to our channel
just go below this video look for the
big red subscribe
button press that button in this week's
video we're going to do something really
different
we're going to go back and look at all
of the diy
that i've done on this boat since buying
it back in 2017.
i've done tons of diy on this boat
lots of projects and i filmed pretty
much every one of them
some of them are buried inside of other
episodes some of them are just dedicated
diy episodes but i figured just to save
you guys some time i'd make a new video
and show you snippets of all of my diy
projects i've done for bella chandra so
as you watch this video
look for the little cards as they appear
at the top of the screen it's like a
little gray bar
you can click that button it'll take you
to the video and you can watch the
entire project that i'm talking about
and when you're done
you can just go back to this video and
keep watching for more diy boat projects
i hope you enjoy it so the glow plug is
behind
this sort of rubber thing
close to 1 ohm awesome
[Music]
so my goal for this afternoon is to
install the
framework on the boat that i'll need for
the winter cover
[Music]
[Applause]
all right so my plastic enclosure is
completely shrink wrapped
continues to run until i manually turn
it off myself so
obviously the bilge pump itself is the
problem
and i'll be putting this new bilge pump
in to replace the old one
so what you want to do is hit this thing
until it starts to ooze out and you'll
see it it just the whole thing just kind
of melts
hey guys so today i'm going to deal with
some creaky floorboard issues i've got
here on balochandra if you look down
here when you walk across
the floor it's a bit of a creakiness to
it
shove the syringe into the hole
fill it with epoxy before clamping down
this piece of cabin sole
i applied a layer of plastic wrap so my
wooden blocks wouldn't stick
all right so here it is uh this is the
replacement
plumbing for my raw water
in in the forward head brought the c
strainer with me we're going to clean it
up we're going to take it apart
change the seals put it back together
make sure it's
looking nice and take it back to the
boat reinstall it and make sure it's
watertight
and you know how it is when you have two
dissimilar metals in a marine
environment
one will typically eat the other
literally eating the hole right through
like i mean it kind of looks like on
alien when
the acid hits the metal and eats a hole
the fiberglass
door to my chain locker i'm going to
camphor
this edge off just slice right across
here
and remove this big chunk
[Music]
back aboard balochandra and i brought my
chain locker door it's
finished with the fiberglass all
repaired so in this week's episode i
found some wet core on the deck around
my anker windlass switches
they clearly didn't isolate the core
when they installed this
these switches and that's kind of a big
no-no bend
them like this to fit them in the holes
pulling out long strands of fiberglass
right off the cloth itself and
mixing it right into the epoxy we're
going to start by scraping the bottom
then we're going to sand the bottom then
we'll put another coat of paint on the
bottom and we have to change our zincs
and we have to look at those through
halls that were frozen
[Music]
i was able to bring this in to get 3d
scanned so
that's what they did they put this on a
3d scanner and they scanned the whole
thing in dimensionally for me
and created a 3d model from this and
today i was fortunate enough to
receive my first print so here it is
i went up and had a look at the winch
and disconnected things and then i've
been using my multimeter
to test out this control box which is
mounted just
in our v-berth there and there's some
like nasty corrosion on there
it's not it's not terrible but it would
stop it from making contact so
to fix this switch i think all i really
need to do is take some sandpaper
and clean up these contacts put it all
back together and give it a shot
[Music]
all right so that's it holes are cut and
it's all cleaned up
i flared all these little holes here
so that i don't get gel coat cracks i'll
be ascending with the
bosun's chair but this is sort of like
if something goes wrong
this will hold me really well and i've
also got
an ascender that's what this is called
but i'm just using
one as a way to hold me
on one of the halyards in case something
goes wrong and i slip
this will catch me so it's just hanging
there i got all my tools in a bag here
and every tool
this time is tied to a string so i don't
lose it
so with this system you can use your
existing instrument if you have an
existing masthead unit depth sounder
speed over ground instruments as long as
they output an nmea signal
you can input that data into the
raspberry pi which will multiplex that
data out as a stream and then you can
broadcast that through a wi-fi signal
out to
your tablet or your pc or your phone or
you can just run
your full navigation system right off
the raspberry pi because it's
essentially just like an
onboard computer so let's get started
and i'll show you how i install the
raspberry pi system with open plotter
in my nav station as our onboard
computer in this video you'll learn how
to build your own wi-fi multiplexer with
chartplotter autopilot control ais
and a live nme80183 or nmea 2000 data
feed for all your sailboat data and use
it with your phone
ipad android or windows tablet or laptop
today
i'm taking a look at one of our port
lights this is the only leaky
port light we've got and obviously we've
been trying to deal with it
by putting tape around it and the tape
did work for a while you know
but it's not a permanent fix and before
we go south this is something that i
need to address
it's really important not to tighten the
screws and bolts until the caulking has
dried
also the screws should remain stationary
while tightening
if you happen to be installing a new
windlass or you're having someone
install a windlass for you
make sure that they're isolating any
core that they dig through i mean these
are some pretty big holes
put through a piece that's a permanent
fixture on your boat
this piece here is bolted right onto the
deck and the windlass is then bolted
into this piece
fairly thick piece of plywood but right
here
they didn't isolate it so i took some
chisels and i dug this out
and made a cavity
[Music]
this needs to be stripped down and
cleaned and then repainted as you can
see
i have been able to remove the motor
shaft
right from the motor this is where i
removed the gasket on the gearbox
[Music]
the main reason i'm taking the mast out
is because some of the keel bolts that i
need to tighten and replace the washers
for
are located under the mast step
hey guys so as you can see we got the
mask down we used this crane
and we got it down so yeah we're gonna
drop the rudder today
there's this space here but that's not
enough to get the rudder out when this
slit moves we can drop the rudder lower
and get it out all right well it took
all day the way these things typically
do
but i got my rudder now tied on and i
did this rope that goes across them
below kind of a little basket for the
rudder to hold and that's my car jack
underneath got my rudder out i'm ready
to cut it open
and see what i've got inside i know it's
wet
[Music]
okay with this foam you use equal parts
a and b the first thing you want to do
is shake this up really good
so you can see that i've already kind of
carved this to a degree
i had poured all this foam and it
overflowed and everything i took
a regular saw like a wood cutting
handsaw
and it worked really well for carving
this out and then i just filled all the
low spots with
some more foam
the surface of the fiberglass is uneven
so i'm going to use some thickened g
flex epoxy underneath this to level it
until that epoxy's dried and then i can
put the washers
and the bolt back on and torque it all
down and here are the washers i picked
up
from mcmaster carr in the united states
you can see it says 316 these are 316
stainless steel and then
the bolt will go on top of that and then
i torque all this down using a torque
wrench to a specified torque in order to
meet that torque i have to use a torque
multiplier this torque multiplier is a
four to one ratio that means it will
magnify
the amount of torque that i can apply by
hand four times
the first thing i did to start building
my series drogue was download the
instructions from sailrite
you need three straps per cone to
measure the strap to fit the cone
you can double it up like this so it's
basically
folded in half you find the middle by
the halfway point
you line that up to the top of the cone
like this along the
marks that you've made and in doing so
you'll know that you have 15 inches of
strap above
the cone and roughly 10 inches or so
below the cone for the lower attachment
point
you want to push it in about three
quarters of an inch or so
then turn it about 45 degrees
so that it comes out through the braided
line at an angle
so here it is this is our jordan series
drogue pretty much completed
so that's the end of this interactive
dedicated diy boat projects video i hope
you guys enjoyed it if you haven't
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