In this week's episode of Onboard Lifestyle we start a milestone project that is long overdue. We have made four interior doors on our custom 435 catamaran s...
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everyone welcome back to SB basic you're
probably wondering why I'm standing on
this piece of wood on a boat that is
mostly synthetic actually the
superstructure
on our boat is 95 percent 90 core and
about five percent wood there is a
little bit of wood in areas where
compression or torsion are critical like
this box beam right here this box beam
runs beamed a beam here we have another
box beam that runs beam to beam forward
we also have structure underneath the
mast that is made of wood that really
works well with compression 90 core or
any honeycomb will not do well in those
situations so what is involved that
brings me to this piece of wood here
this is the last piece of a pallet of
door blanks that I bought at a Marine
auction a yacht manufacturer bellingham
had a surplus of just different sized
door blanks they were all inch and a
half thick
all night and core construction with a
mahogany skin and solid genuine mahogany
inlay I made an offer on them and got
the entire pallet for ten dollars a slow
so I've been using those honest a basic
I have made all the doors out of these
slabs and this is the last one
I'll show you how he did it all right so
while teals working outside first off
can I tell you how excited I am that he
is working on our final door the fifth
of the four doors that he has completed
I don't really count the cockpit door
just because he built the frame and it
already came completed so yes
it's gorgeous it's beautiful it's safe
but these ones he actually had to build
it from scratch so I'm gonna show you
the four doors that he has completed
while he works on this bit I'm gonna
take you first down to Emma's room so
here's Emma stateroom door and it just
looks like your average slab of door not
anything fancy the amount of work that
teal had to do to get it to this is
amazing actually it's pretty astounding
because it's just a piece of slab nida
core sandwich with mahogany to make it
really strong and teal had to fibreglass
ferret and get it to a smooth finish for
paint we went with the Seattle gray
inter luxe paint just because he wanted
to break up the white you guys know that
we like pristine white on the boat but
just to break it up and give it a little
personality we decided to go with the
grey
I gave Emma these really cute mirror
stickers that she was able to put all
over her door just to give it something
a little Jewish I guess but she loves it
I like it gives it a little character
makes it fun for her it is a kitchen
room now I'm going to show you this door
so this is the guest stateroom door and
one of the things about this door is it
looks normal looks like the other door
but this one gave teal a heck of a
because it is an articulating door he
had to manufacture something so then it
still went all the way down to the
bottom and in in relationship to the
fact that the whole curves he wanted to
be able to have that articulate so then
it still went open and close so I'm
gonna give you just a little thing you
see how that kind of bends it still
works
pretty awesome right now the other thing
that I would like to see happen with
this door is I'd like to get a
full-length mirror on all of them just
so then it just kind of opens up the
space but I don't need it right now just
yet but it'll come okay so that other
one I'm going to show you the head door
which actually is the first door that
teal built and this one's really special
just because this one was really hard
this one was intimidating just because
yeah it looks normal
it looks easy but then it kind of curves
with the ceiling so the cabin curves
down as it gets closer to the side hulls
so we had to figure out how we're gonna
do this we decided to do this swing to
go out and I have my mirror you see how
that opens up people have asked if this
is a toe catch and no it's not believe
it or not it's not just because nobody
walks this close against the wall he
likes it because it hides all his to-do
lists
you guys see our famous to-do list that
keeps growing but I think door is
somewhere here I don't know I know it's
here somewhere
and it seems like every time we get rid
of one more pops up we're just gonna try
to do all the safety and necessities
before we leave all right so the last
one is obviously our master and again
it's a great door we use the same
continuous hinge on all the doors to
give it a perfect reveal nothing torques
or anything on it so that's great we use
the same handles on all of them so then
if there is repairs or replacements we
have extras this one also cut it catches
it's amazing that you can't hear
anything once the doors closed
so this is why I'm so excited for the
last door I think this last door might
be a head scratcher for teal because it
looks normal and it's not like the one
in our guest stateroom that's
articulating because this one kind of
goes away it's not quite wide enough so
he's gonna have to figure something out
so then the door can still open and
close without it being super awkward I'm
excited to see what he comes up with I'm
pretty sure it's gonna be awesome but
until then I'm going to assist and help
him however I can't
okay I have a 20-inch door opening
that's my rough opening this is 21 and
3/4 inches what I need you to find out
is how far does this mahogany how far is
it inlaid into this door and that's
pretty simple
take a couple of readings
inch-and-a-half so now I know that the
in light comes in a total of inch and a
half so I'll lay that out on here
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okay the only reason I made these marks
is just to give me a frame of reference
of where the wood ed is in relation to
where the ninety cord is laying out the
width of the store is pretty simple
actually if I have a 20 inch door
opening that's my rough opening I take
off three eighths of an inch and that
allows for glass it allows for the door
gap and the hinge so in this case I am
21 in 3/4 so that put me at 10 and 7/8
to my center mark
if I have a 20-inch rough opening minus
3/8 that'll be 19 and 5/8 19 and 5/8
divided by 2 will be my half mark okay
now here's my new line this will be my
door slab you see that I have still bump
5/16 3/8 of an inch right here of
mahogany and that's what I was shooting
for and that's why I laid this out
I need this little strip here so when I
lay my glass over I I could router a
nice radius on it I could attach my
continuous hinge to it I could inlay my
new door hardware to it it gives me a
screw holding all through this area here
and that'll carry around to three sides
the fourth side when I cut it to hide
I'll have to inlay but that's coming up
I'm gonna make this riff before I
measure this out making the trip first
I'll be able to rip it sand it and get
it true and they'll be able to pull my
19 and 5/8 off that and get a much more
accurate number
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that is a tough rep six feet through
genuine mahogany with my trusty little
battery-powered saw it's done this cut a
hundred times and it keeps powering
through
now I'm gonna got the first rip off I
could pull an accurate measurement to
get a nice width nineteen in five days
it's amazing I'm only leaving about
three-eighths of an inch of mahogany
near this stuff is the majority of the
weight in this panel here actually I got
a piece record here's another piece I've
cut out so the 94 I mean this piece
right here weighs six ounces it's great
light so once I get the bolt of this
perimeter cut off this door slab will
weigh quite a bit less and that's what
I'm going for
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cutting this mahogany in the cockpit is
thrown a lot of dust down on the ground
but luckily I have quite the dust
control system
I love my dust collection system you're
very lucky that you're talented and
peace otherwise I wouldn't do this all
the time
okay before I start shaping this door
slab I need to look at how the door
needs to swing I can't swing it into the
stairs and I can't swing it this way
because it'll it'll hit the steps on the
way by and still will still be a issue
with the staircase here so my choices
are swinging it in if I swing it this
way let's go to back here it's not a big
deal but it covers up the sink and part
of the head so that forces you to close
the door if you ever want to use kind of
walking into the room just to use the
sink
you'd have to close the door some way
other option is swing it this way it
misses the port light so that's on issue
but the issue is down here the whole
shape I cannot physically swing the
store into a curved hole to do that I'd
have to articulate the door like I did
in the guest stateroom not a big issue
just about twice the work
okay now that I've decided I'm gonna
build this articulated door rather than
a conventional door
I'm gonna build the upper half first
it's 63 and a half inches tall and I
want to get the hardware and everything
installed on there and get this door
glassed and finished and installed that
way I could get hard measurements for
the lower articulating portion so 63 and
a half is my first guy
I need to fill in this old mortise for
the old handset next so I'll just square
it off
and a poxy and a nice spacer
can't see how this fits that's nice and
snug okay back it out pack it with some
epoxy and get it put in place
a little epoxy in here doesn't need much
because I am overlaying this entire slab
with cloth and epoxy this will just keep
it from wavelength
guarantee it'll never move but let's see
how it goes okay
here's that smirk of embarrassment
about one minute after I cut my slab
down I went down to test fit it and
realized that I can't do an articulated
door on this particular rough opening
and I'll show you why in a minute
so I'm now putting this door back
together and we'll just have a standard
swinging door swinging into the sink
darn it okay you're probably wondering
why I cut the door in half and then
repaired it back and here's my
explanation I was torn whether or not to
swing the door into the hole which I'd
have to have an articulated door and
have a cut or swing it into the counter
and then I have a full slap I kind of
kicked around both ways and I could have
gone either way but I went this way by
mistake so I repaired it mice mistake
happened five years ago when I was
building this wall here this is
perfectly plumb and true this is
perfectly plumb and true to right here
there is a hump you can't see it and
I've never noticed it and I'll show you
how this happened but by having this
hump here my choices are either cut this
structure out and rebuild it reclass it
ferret painted and I can do that
and I made you that the future but it'd
take a week or so or I could just swing
the door on this side which I can have
the door in in a couple days so that's
how I decided to do just put the door
back easy fix
put a spline in the door epoxy back
together and I have a solid slab again
let me show you what I did
how this happened if you take a look
here is that opening when I frame this
up I ran a stud here six inch on center
up through this wall with foam in the
core I ran a stud here I ran a header
and studs six inch on center across here
I didn't want to run a stud here because
it was creating this 95 degree slant
right here so what I ended up doing was
running studs this way into the hole and
I was able to fill that with foam these
are six inch on center everything was
perfect until this last uh drinker some
reason it bowed out 3/16 of an inch
doesn't seem like a lot but it's enough
that if I put a continuous hinge on here
it won't work and it's not like I could
just plane that off this is wrapped with
glass there's actually stainless steel
fasteners holding that stud in so it's
it's not major but I can I can tear it
out and redo it but I'll just go to plan
B and swing it into the counter
now that I've cut the majority of the
mahogany out going to the left is just
the skin a thin layer around and the
ninety four things actually getting
pretty light that's what I want next
thing to do is this knock these radiuses
into the corners these are going to be a
little bit proud I just want to get it
close so I could shape it and scribe it
once I get it set and mounted
okay the next thing I need to do is the
slab needs this corner knocked off as it
comes through here this is the hand side
this is the handset side so I'm going to
elevate this about 3/8 off the floor and
then hold it about 3/8 off this wall to
right here and then the slab starts so
I'll calculate that next here's a little
trick I like to do I took all the
calculations as hard measurements to
calculate this knock on the corner here
then I went down and made a template out
of cardboard then my double-check
he's lining these up now I feel safe to
cut it okay it's the next morning my
urge is to get right outside and start
working on my project this door slabs
calling my name and I want to get it
hung today but first things first we got
to get Lynn off to work
get her ready get her out the door then
I got to take care of Emma she demands a
hearty breakfast that girl can eat she
could eat easily more than I did so make
her a nice hearty breakfast and get her
squared away best time to take care of a
couple chores do the dishes make the
beds and laundry anything else that
needs to be done around the boat we try
to get all this done by 8:30 every
morning because at 8:30
that's when Emma starts her home school
and we homeschool
hang on for it
we homeschool every morning from 8:30 to
about 12:30 and during that time I am
doing my work at the same time so I'll
be bouncing back and forth
I do work from the boat and that's my
time to get my work done bounce over
help out my bounce over do my work and
we try to get it done in four or five
hours every day after that it's off to
violin practice so we head out go across
town and take Emma to her violin
practice and that's important she loves
it she's just taking a liking to it so
we're just gonna keep pushing it to do
it after violin we get back to the boat
now it's 1:15 so we have a quick lunch
and I get to work so I get to work on
the boat from about two o'clock to about
4:30 5 o'clock every day the rest of
time is editing and taking care of life
so I'm anxious to get this book done and
it just calls me to get it done but boy
I got a hustle okay now I could get to
work so my goal today now that I've got
my slab roughed out I need to cut
my continuous hinge get it installed
here's my handset that I'll be
installing but first I want to get the
the hinge mounted get this installed in
the rough opening and and why I'm doing
that is because I've cut this thing a
little proud all the way around I want
to get it hung that way I could describe
my reveal and get a nice even reveal so
that's the next step so here's how I do
that okay the easiest and cleanest way I
have found to make a nice cut on the
stainless continuous hinge is just using
my Dremel with a heavy-duty cut-off
wheel
you may go to one or two but you'll get
a nice clean cut
okay let's see how this turned out nice
and clean your report card is a fold to
hinge closed and see if the points match
up and I'm happy with that tells you if
you got it square or not I'm just
putting a few of the screws in to hold
the continuous hand just in case I need
to do any adjustments and there we go
okay now to go test in this
okay go in I just need your home for one
minute okay we know what I'm gonna do
put the bottom in you can yeah okay now
push it into place it's gonna be tight
push the top a little bit more a little
bit more now I'm going to scribe it that
looks good
okay now that I have this scribed I'll
shape this end and I may do this two or
three times before I get it perfect but
each time I get closer and closer so I'm
happy
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okay got it shaped and I put a couple
little tacks in just to hold this
continuous hinge let's see how this
thing looks now reveals are getting
pretty nice but I'm running out of time
today this video is get all along so
what I'm going to do is cut it off right
here next week
I'll finish routing the edges filling
the 90 core putting my handset in and
then glass cloth and hopefully Prime and
paint we'll see you then
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