After a good search, I've decided on an electric bilge pump and it duly arrives. I make a start on the settee cushions and discover I've been cluttering up the house for no good reason. And obviously, I make some progress on the keel timber; fairing it up and drilling the keel bolt holes.
This is the story of the building of a Jay Benford designed, 31.8ft, junk schooner-rigged cruising sailboat. The videos are a week-by-week record of the build as it progresses and aim to show as much detail as possible of the various aspects of the build.
These videos take a lot of time and effort to make, in what is already a time-intensive project. Your support in watching, subscribing and sharing these videos is very much appreciated. You make a real difference!!
If you'd like to throw a few bucks in the boat building kitty in appreciation of the efforts here, you can do this by;
Joining the Patreon crew - https://www.patreon.com/sv_tapatya
Supporting us on PayPal - https://www.paypal.me/svtapatya
SV Tapatya merchandising - https://www.svtapatya.com/shop.html
or via the tips jar; http://www.svtapatya.com/the-tips-jar.html
Music tracks "Sit and Wonder", "Ocean View" and "The Great Divide" available on iTunes, Amazon etc. EP "Shake a Leg", album "Out of the Moloch", single "Ocean View".
Check out Hazel's music at https://music.apple.com/us/album/1503250522?app=itunes
Music from these videos is available from: https://ynotb.bandcamp.com/album/the-sv-tapatya-tracks
Thank you :-)
Tony
Closed Captions (CC) :
third
[Music]
so
[Music]
[Music]
so
[Music]
recently
[Music]
soon we'll
[Music]
one thing i haven't mentioned as yet and
is
rather important is bilge pumps
and i've got a couple of bilge pumps
i've just well i've had this one for
donkeys it's an old henderson pump
with a double chamber thing
lovely pumpkin it's very easy to he says
very easy to take apart
and clean and you know service if need
be
marvelous one
that's over two chambers so that will be
going in somewhere
but all the parts of that one the manual
pump and for the electric bilge pump i
just purchased this one here this is a
bulkhead mounted bilge pump
which i rather like the idea of that i
like the idea of keeping the bilge pump
itself up out of the water not having
electrics in the bilge water keeping the
pump up dry obviously has a pipe down
into the bilge
and now
and i'm very pleased with that um
it's got these comes with various
fittings
straight or right angle
and they're quick
just pop them in there push that blue
thing down and they're in
so they can be removed quickly
wrong thing
so it can be removed quickly if need be
come
that's very nice i should be fitting
that soon up on the bulkhead
in the engine room
obviously going up through a loop and
then back down to a to a
through hull
with a stop clock on it
[Music]
unfortunately this this build pump i
just showed you it's a flow jet
and it's come with no blurb there are no
indications on it which way around it
flows an arrow would be nice you know
nothing so i'm gonna have to do an
experiment see which way around which
one's the end and which one's the out
why aren't they labeled
i suppose maybe it's possible you just
wire it up the other way around and it
flows the other way
i think we'll see which way it runs with
the conventional wiring
yeah see some water spray
[Applause]
the end here somewhere
it should be fine we should get the hose
down there no problem
one and two
[Applause]
right
[Applause]
um
a little bit
that's really not bad
hi i'm tony this is sv to patia we are
building this
basically 32 foot cruising sailboat with
which we hope to explore hope and plan
to explore various waters of the world
and
we're in the process of building
and i thought i'd start this week with
something a little bit different the
last few weeks have been a lot about the
keel wood we'll come back to the kill
wood later but i wanted to start
somewhere a bit different
so as you saw
bilge pump electrical build pump
electric build pumps going in
got it mounted on the bulkhead in the
engine room
um i've ordered the through hull
for it um it's actually just arrived but
the ball valve hasn't i want a ball
valve on there even though i've probably
never shut that ball valve
um i felt it was wisest to have one on
there just in case so i'm waiting on the
ball valve so i can get that through
hull in
and then get the pipe work in there
the electrics are already in the engine
rooms just a case of connecting the
bilge pump up there
so that's pretty straightforward
the manual build pump will be fitted i
believe i'm going to fit it in the
lazarette i've had a good look around
with it find the best spot
and i think the lazarette will be a good
spot for it
i think the electric build pump will be
the primary build pump and the manual
as a as a kind of back up and be able to
open the lazarette hatch and pump if
need be
so that's what i'm planning there
um and as you saw also just made the
very first hint of a start on the
upholstery in here
and i'll tell you a story about that
it's it's uh
seems a bit silly in retrospect but
anyhow
since before i started building this
boat i've been saving
cushions mattresses and things for the
foam
and because i wanted to keep them dry
and essentially mouse-free we kept them
in the house
and
it was it was four or five of these big
things cluttering up the place for years
on end
so i brought them out here eventually
and started cutting them to size
and uh i had a couple of cushions that
come from an old sofa city it's a
reasonable quality foam they're 10
centimeters thick and the other cushions
i had turned out to be 12 centimetres
see all foam pieces i had 12 centimetres
thick and i didn't like that and the 12
centimeter thick stuff also turned out
to be really soft and the the satisf a
better quality
so then i bought
some good quality upholstery foam 10
centimeters thick and i've cut that in
now to this one that i'm sat on it's
beautiful
and it's even better than the stuff from
the cities
so now
i've bought enough to do the entire
cities in here of the good quality new
stuff
and my saving of these cushions for
years on end has been essentially a
waste of time and space
it's life i suppose
[Applause]
[Applause]
um
[Music]
well of course the other big thing this
week has been to
progress with this keel timber
um
needed a good clean up after all the
dribblers of epoxy and set off
so give it a good stand up with the belt
sander and a plane with the old school
planer and then one of the important
things was to make sure this tapered
section here at the aft end was
symmetrical even both sides um i'd only
rough these woods and pieces of wood out
with a skill saw and my skill saw
as a better play in the bearings is not
the most accurate beastie so obviously i
cut you know a bit generously
and then squared some lines across and
cloned them up to a nice symmetrical
shape flat even taper
rounded off the aft end
and we're ready to think about drilling
some teal bolt holes
ah
get your hands up
[Music]
[Music]
so
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
so
[Music]
so
[Music]
so
[Music]
so
[Music]
that's about right
oh
[Applause]
this
[Music]
[Music]
that's it
[Applause]
[Music]
but the trick with the kill bolts as i
said is to is to clamp a level in
position
and use that as your guide and just keep
stand back get a good eye on on that
you're parallel to that level
in all directions
and they've come out very well they've
come out almost perfect in fact they've
come out extremely well one is a little
bit out i've tried to fiddle that a bit
um it doesn't matter if you make the
hole a bit bigger or a bit oval because
in the end of the day when the kill
bolts are in position
i'll be pouring a load of epoxy down the
holes
to fill them and seal them properly
completely
and they'll be filled with wet epoxy so
they'll be good and solid
and after a lot of thinking about keel
bolts
an awful lot of thinking about kill
volts
i have um as you may have seen i've
bought
some bronze uh bar which i'll be
threading each end
and i've decided now to embed the lower
end in the lead
i think
either in a j form or i'll thread them
and put a plate on the bottom of them
bottom of them to spread the load
you know in the lid
and then they'll be coming up and say
fixed in the lid up through the timbers
obviously and pouring as i've just said
pouring epoxy around them to seal
everything completely i'll put thickened
epoxy on the top of the lead so it comes
up and it's all completely sealed
waterproof
watertight
should be good we hope the final thing
was to spread some filler on to fill up
any imperfections or whatever and where
the board joints so
what the corners are broken as my mate
george would call it so a little bit
there needed so filled it and it's ready
for a final sand now
so
hello
and that's it for this week thanks for
watching give us a thumbs up leave a
comment hit that subscribe button all
that youtube stuff
we'll be back
see you next time bye
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
are okay
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Applause]
you
[Music]